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Walking into a Portuguese filigree workshop feels like stepping back in time.
The smell of heated metal mixes with the sound of hammers, and your eyes get lost in the gold and silver threads so fine they look like spider webs. Each piece is handmade, with a patience few can imagine.
In this article, we’ll follow the journey of a filigree necklace, from raw material to the final jewel, ready to shine on the neck of its wearer.
Choosing the raw material: gold and silver
The process always begins with the noble metal. In Portugal, artisans traditionally work with 19.2-carat gold and high-quality silver.
The master artisan shows us small, shiny ingots, still rough, far removed from the delicacy we associate with filigree. It is from these solid blocks of metal that the light, lace-like jewel is born.
Before moving forward, the metal must be purified and melted. Silver or gold is placed in a crucible resistant to extreme heat and heated until it melts. The glowing mass is then poured into molds, forming rectangular bars. These bars will serve as the base for transforming the metal into thread.
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From block to thread: the art of refining the metal
With the ingot solidified, the next step is to reduce the metal to the thickness of a hair. The artisan guides us to a simple machine with steel rollers. The bar passes through it again and again, becoming thinner each time.
Next, the wire goes to the draw plate, a steel plate with dozens of holes in different sizes. The wire is pulled manually, hole after hole, until it reaches the desired thickness. Some end up measuring less than half a millimeter. It’s impressive to see the patience required: each pull demands strength, but also delicacy, to avoid breaking the wire.
In the end, the metal has gained the lightness that defines filigree. In the artisan’s hands, spools of gold and silver thread are wound, ready to be transformed into intricate designs.
The base of the necklace: structure and strength
Before creating the lace-like motifs, a supporting structure is needed. The master shows us how to make the frame of the necklace: thicker wires are bent into a curve, forming the skeleton. These wires are soldered at strategic points, creating the resistant base.
At this stage, the piece still looks simple, almost raw. But this skeleton will support the delicate filigree work. Without it, the necklace would not have strength.
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The wire becomes art: twisting and weaving
Now comes the most magical moment. The artisan cuts tiny pieces of wire and begins to twist them with the help of tweezers. The wire turns into curves, spirals, and arabesques. It’s like drawing in the air, but instead of ink, gold and silver are used.
The most traditional motifs are the Heart of Viana, flowers, and the cross. Each one has a meaning, passed down from generation to generation. The master fits these small designs into the structure of the necklace, like assembling a puzzle.
The detail is so delicate that often a magnifying glass is needed. The silence of the workshop is broken only by the crackling of the flame, used to fix each tiny piece in place.
Soldering: joining without weighing down
Once the wires are in position, they need to be secured. For this, the artisan uses powdered solder, carefully spread over the joints. With a fine flame, the metal is heated until the solder melts, fusing the wires almost invisibly.
This is where the mastery of the craft becomes clear: too much heat can destroy hours of work, while too little means the piece won’t hold. It’s a balance that only years of practice can achieve.
Assembling the elements: a necklace takes shape
A filigree necklace is rarely made from a single piece. It is usually composed of several modules joined together. The artisan creates each individual module, with the lace-like patterns already complete, and then connects them, soldering them to the necklace’s structure.
At this stage, the design starts to come alive. It’s no longer just a collection of wires, but a complete necklace, with harmony and proportion.
Polishing and finishing touches
After all the soldering is complete, the necklace needs to be cleaned and polished. First, the piece is immersed in chemical baths to remove residues. Then, it is polished by hand until the gold or silver shines intensely.
Some artisans prefer a matte finish, while others go for full shine. It is also at this stage that small additional details can be added, such as decorative clasps or adjustable links.
The artisan’s touch: identity and tradition
Every filigree master has a unique style. Some are known for more traditional motifs, while others innovate with modern designs. But all preserve the essence: lightness, transparency, and lace-like detail.
The artisan explains that, in the end, filigree is not only technique. It is also identity. A necklace may carry symbols of protection, love, or prosperity. Every curve and every thread has meaning.
From workshop to client
With the necklace finished, it’s time for delivery. The piece is carefully packaged, often accompanied by a certificate of authenticity. After all, it’s not just jewelry: it’s a piece of Portuguese cultural heritage.
At LoveitPortugal, every filigree jewel comes directly from master artisans. By purchasing one, you are supporting this ancestral craft and helping to keep the tradition alive.
Following each of these steps, it’s impossible not to admire the dedication involved. The process is slow, artisanal, carried out with patience and passion. A filigree necklace is not born from a machine: it is born from the experienced hands of those who learned from generations before them.
When you wear a filigree necklace, you carry centuries of Portuguese history and culture with you. It’s more than an accessory, it’s a piece of Portugal’s soul.
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