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Portuguese filigree is one of the most beautiful expressions of traditional goldsmithing.
Crafted with ultra-fine gold or silver wires, woven with almost magical precision, it represents centuries of history, culture, and manual expertise passed down from generation to generation.
For a long time, it was worn mainly on special occasions, associated with symbols such as the Heart of Viana or the “Contas de Viana”, marking important life moments like baptisms, weddings, or religious celebrations.
In recent years, filigree has gained new life. It has been reinterpreted by artisans and designers who give it a more modern twist, making it increasingly present in everyday life.
And that’s a good thing, because this is an art that deserves to be seen, worn, and appreciated.
But with increased demand, imitations and counterfeit pieces have also appeared.
Mass-produced items, often made outside Portugal, that try to imitate the style of Portuguese filigree without respecting the materials, traditional methods, or the true soul of craftsmanship.
So, how can you be sure your filigree piece is really Portuguese?
In this article, we explain the signs that help identify a piece’s origin, and why it’s so important to value what is ours, not only for quality but out of respect for those who keep a centuries-old art alive.
Look for the official contrast hallmark
One of the first signs that a piece is authentic, and possibly Portuguese, is the presence of the contrast hallmark.
In Portugal, all genuine gold or silver jewellery must bear this mandatory mark.
It’s a small engraving made directly on the piece, with a specific symbol that identifies the type of precious metal (gold or silver) and its fineness (i.e., the actual amount of pure metal it contains).
This mark is not applied by the manufacturer or the shop. It is stamped by INCM – Imprensa Nacional Casa da Moeda, the only entity authorised in Portugal to certify precious metals.
Before being marked, the piece is analysed and approved by a specialised laboratory, ensuring it meets legal quality standards.
If your filigree piece does not have this hallmark, there are two possible reasons for concern:
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It may not be Portuguese—that is, it may have been made in another country where this level of quality control does not exist.
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It may not even be real silver or gold, meaning you are wearing (or buying) an imitation made with low-value metals.
So, when choosing a filigree piece, look closely and always check for the contrast hallmark.
It’s a small mark with great meaning: it guarantees that you’re investing in an authentic, safe, and traceable piece of jewellery.
Check the maker’s stamp
In addition to the contrast hallmark, which certifies the precious metal, jewellery made in Portugal must also have a maker’s stamp.
This stamp is a specific symbol assigned to each artisan or company registered with the Portuguese Assay Office.
It works like the official “signature” of the piece’s creator and allows you to identify exactly who made it.
It’s more than a technical detail:
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It ensures transparency in the production process.
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It allows you to trace the origin of the piece.
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It confirms the jewellery’s authenticity, distinguishing it from mass-produced imitations, often made outside Portugal.
If a filigree piece lacks this stamp, or if the mark does not correspond to a registered Portuguese maker, it should raise a red flag.
It may indicate that the piece was made outside the legal system or that it is being sold as Portuguese without truly being so.
So, when buying filigree jewellery, don’t hesitate to ask the seller who made the piece and whether the maker’s stamp is visible.
Observe the design details
Portuguese filigree has a very distinctive style. The most traditional forms include:
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Heart of Viana
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Viana Beads
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Trees of Life
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Crosses with twisted wire
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Nature-inspired shapes (flowers, spirals, leaves)
In addition, the wirework has a special pattern: two twisted wires, placed with millimetric precision by hand.
If the piece features unusual motifs, flat wires, or poorly finished patterns, it’s likely an imitation.
Ask about the origin of the piece
When buying a filigree piece, don’t be afraid to ask questions. A trustworthy seller should clearly explain the origin and characteristics of the jewellery.
Here are some essential questions to ask:
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Where was the piece made? In Portugal? In which region?
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Who made it? An artisan, a traditional workshop, a company?
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Is it handmade or machine-made?
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What is the metal composition? Sterling silver? 19.2-carat gold?
The answers should be clear and informed. If the seller hesitates, cannot explain, or gives vague answers such as “it’s Portuguese filigree” or “it’s handmade,” that may indicate the piece has no real connection to Portuguese craftsmanship.
In fact, many imitations on the market are mass-produced abroad using machines and then presented as if they were traditional Portuguese jewellery.
That’s why transparency about origin is essential.
Buying consciously is also a way to support true Portuguese master artisans, who dedicate time, patience, and expertise to every piece they create.
Beware of prices that are too low
Traditional Portuguese filigree requires time, patience, and great skill. It’s normal for it to cost more than mass-produced imitations or pieces made with low-quality metals.
If you find a piece at a price that seems “too good to be true,” stop and think:
Was it really made in Portugal, or is it just a copy?
Buy from shops that support artisans
At LoveitPortugal, we work exclusively with Portuguese artisans. Each piece is carefully made by experienced hands that have inherited ancient knowledge and keep it alive.
We share the story of those who create our jewellery because we believe the origin is just as important as the beauty of the piece itself.
Conclusion: choosing wisely is protecting what is ours
By learning to identify genuine Portuguese filigree, you’re doing more than ensuring quality.
You’re helping to preserve an art form with centuries of history—and supporting those who continue to create with their own hands.
At LoveitPortugal, every piece tells a story, and that story always begins in Portugal.
Follow us on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest to learn more about our work and discover jewellery that celebrates what is truly Portuguese.
